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After nearly two decades, the Jews in Postville, Iowa,
are beginning to blend into the fabric of small-town life.
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Photo by Arwin Waller
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Late one Saturday morning, Heshy Rubashkin and his 13-year-old
son, Chaim Aryeh, emerged from their shul in a rustic white
house at the edge of a cornfield. Apart from the older man’s
bushy beard, the two were dressed identically in black coats
and Borsalino hats. A blond girl stared from a pick-up truck
adorned with fuzzy dice as the Rubashkins walked briskly down
the street and into their home on Greene Street. Glancing around
his living room, with its rows of Hebrew books and enormous
portrait of the late Lubavitcher Rebbe, Menachem Mendel Schneersohn,
Rubashkin shook his head. “Never in a million years,” he
said, “did I think I would end up in Iowa.”
Postville, Iowa, with its population of 2,300, is a cluster
of storefronts and big wooden houses surrounded by farmland
on all sides. Its very name has been the stuff of American
Jewish legend since the late 1980’s, when a family
of Lubavitch Hasidim opened a kosher meat plant in the town.
It was Rubashkin’s father, Brooklyn butcher Aaron Rubashkin,
who purchased a local slaughterhouse and transformed it into
a company he named Agriprocessors. In 1989, Heshy and his
wife, Basya, arrived to run the new family business. Their
existence was lonely at first. The couple, then 24 and 19,
moved into the Pines Motel and made frequent trips back to
New York. Another Rubashkin brother, Sholom, and a brother-in-law,
Yossi Gouarie, soon arrived to help—but instead of
joining Heshy in Iowa, the two men commuted three hours from
St. Paul, Minnesota, so their children could attend an Orthodox
Jewish school.
When Chaim Aryeh reached school age, Basya began thinking
seriously about returning to New York so he could have a
proper Jewish education. “That started a panic in the
family,” recalled Sholom’s wife, Leah. “Heshy
was the only one living in Postville full time, the one who
had been here from the beginning. Besides, everyone was getting
tired of the commute. It was time to have a school of our
own.”
The decision proved to be pivotal. Agriprocessors has since
become the world’s largest glatt-kosher meat and poultry
plant. Along the way, it has attracted over 500 employees,
including some 50 Jewish men required for kashrut-related
supervision. Every morning these Jewish workers, most of
them Lubavitchers, arrive at an industrial building west
of town marked by a large mounted menora. As truckloads of
livestock pull in from nearby farms, they don white butchers’ smocks.
In a group where couples have numerous children (the two
Rubashkin families currently have 16 between them), Jewish
education is indispensable. Of the estimated 200 Jews in
Postville, nearly half are schoolchildren. Chaim Aryeh’s
recent bar mitzva marked a coming of age for the whole community.
“We now have Jewish children who have spent their
whole lives in this town,” said Postville Mayor John
Hyman. “Postville is their home. And as far as I’m
concerned, that’s a positive thing.”
Hyman’s job grew even more colorful during the 1990’s
when the plant began hiring Mexican and Ukrainian workers
to perform production duties unrelated to the laws of kashrut.
The small town became the subject of widespread publicity,
including a PBS special and a controversial book by University
of Iowa professor Stephen Bloom, Postville: A Clash of
Cultures in Heartland America (Harvest/Harcourt). According to Bloom,
the townspeople initially felt slighted when the newcomers
refused to eat with their neighbors. The Jews, in turn, faced
the challenge of raising observant children outside Chabad’s
Crown Heights enclave. “Quite frankly, when people
come from a large urban area to a rural community, it takes
a few years to adjust,” Hyman admitted. “Living
together has been a learning process on all sides.”
Today, Postville’s Jews are beginning to blend into
the fabric of small-town life. A wooden “Worship in
Postville” sign at the town’s entrance lists
the Orthodox shul along with Lutheran, Catholic and Presbyterian
churches. Many of the small country houses are decorated
with Hebrew-lettered signs. Even the three-block business
district reflects a Jewish presence, most notably a popular
kosher deli called Jacob’s Table and a mattress company
opened by Aaron Goldsmith, a Hasidic businessman who was
the first Jewish resident to serve on Postville’s city
council.
“Has the town changed?” asked Betty Hogan, 80,
who moved there from Minnesota in 1954. “Oh, yes, heavenly
days! But everyone’s gotten used to each by now. And
if they haven’t, it’s their own fault.”
For a town that was almost homogeneously Lutheran for 100
years, finding a place for a traditional Chabad education
posed a dilemma. The girls’ school, located in an old
hospital building, offers religious studies in the morning
and secular subjects in the afternoon. The corridors are
decorated with Jewish themes, including a mural of the Chabad
headquarters at 770 Eastern Parkway in Brooklyn, while the
desks are covered with suffix lists and multiplication tables.
Because many of the teachers are wives of Agriprocessors
employees and are not board certified, and because the school
requires the freedom to design its own curriculum, the girls’ school
is officially considered part of the state’s Home School
Assistance program. “That means we are expected to
provide them with all their textbooks and materials, so long
as they are not religiously based,” explained Postville
school superintendent David Strudhoff. “We test them
on a regular basis, but apart from that, they’re quite
largely left alone.”
For a growing number of high school-level classes, the school
is drawing on the skills of non-Jewish teachers. “I
taught an English class to the Jewish girls,” said
Kathy Turner, a tenth-grade English teacher at Postville’s
public high school. Although Turner prides herself on exposing
public school students to Judaism—she shows her sophomores
The Diary of Anne Frank film each year—she found it
challenging to work within the Jewish system. “The
girls were certainly very intelligent,” she said, “[but]
they just had very different ideas. They don’t do the
dating and love thing before marriage, so they didn’t
want me teaching Romeo and Juliet.”
For locals, the boys’ school is truly a world apart.
Located in the white farmhouse that houses the shul, the
yeshiva offers no secular studies whatsoever and is outside
the domain of the Board of Education. Behind heavy wooden
doors, teachers can be heard talking in loud, swift Yiddish.
Young men gather around long tables in the sanctuary, debating
the fine points of Gemara, reading silently or chanting Hebrew
prayers. Along with Yiddish and Hebrew, the boys learn Aramaic,
the language of the Talmud. The curriculum adheres so tightly
to tradition that, if not for the Iowa scenery visible through
every window, the boys could easily be studying in Brooklyn
or a shtetl in eighteenth-century Poland.
The yeshiva does, in fact, import teachers from New York
and Israel. “In a way, I love it here,” said
the school’s director, Rabbi Aharon Cohen, a large
twinkle-eyed Israeli with red hair and beard. The yeshiva
has earned such a good reputation that, said Cohen, 23 of
the 25 high school boys are boarding students from other
parts of the United States.
Still, small boys in yarmulkes can be seen playing with
tow-headed Christian children in Postville’s spacious
backyards. Most of these interactions take place outside—Jewish
parents worry that even the most well-intentioned neighbor
might offer their children nonkosher food. Many also fear
that encouraging contact with the non-Jewish world will raise
difficult issues down the line, namely interest in movies,
television, dating and other staples of adolescence. When
students are taken for skating outings in nearby Decorah,
the school minimizes exposure to local teenage culture by
renting the entire roller rink. “We bring our own music
for the girls, like Mordechai Ben David,” said Leah. “Lively
music but—you know—Jewish.”
At Postville High School, an orange-brick building that
proudly proclaims itself “Home of the Pirates,” local
students say they have little interaction with their Hasidic
peers. Kim Looney, an 18-year-old senior, said she had only
interacted with the Hasidic girls while life-guarding at
the local pool during the special Jewish women’s swim
hour. Dimitriy Vanchugov, an 18-year-old whose non-Jewish
parents came to work at Agriprocessors from Ukraine, added
that the Hasidic men can be particularly inscrutable. “They
separate themselves a lot, especially the rabbis,” he
said. “They live in their own little world, and they
don’t really let people in there. The Russian and Ukrainian
people in Postville try to be part of the community. But
the Jewish people just kind of keep to themselves.”
At least three Jewish families in the area send their children
to public schools. Gerald Abrams—known within the Jewish
community as Yosef—moved to the nearby town of Waukon,
Iowa, in 1998. Although he and his wife, Bluma, originally
came from Conservative backgrounds in the Chicago area, they
grew intrigued by the town’s Orthodox community after
a 1996 visit. In 1998, the couple left their respective jobs
as an attorney and a medical technologist, purchased a dairy
farm 16 miles from Postville and opened a kosher cheese company
called Mitzvah Farms. Their company now ships to groceries
as far away as New York, Texas and British Columbia. With
product names like A Bisil Swiss’l and Muenster Mensch,
and an answering machine greeting that promises to return
messages “faster than fleas on a frying pan,” the
couple has happily settled into the region’s unique
brand of Judaism.
“I come from a big town and so does my husband,” said
Bluma. “It’s wonderful that everyone here treats
you like family. Religiously, they’re not critical
of what you do or don’t do. They only hope you can
maybe do a little bit more sometimes.” The couples
call themselves “Friends of Chabad” and have
become more observant. Yosef generally spends Friday nights
and Saturdays with one of the many families in Postville
so he can walk to Shabbat services. He and Bluma initially
hoped that their sons—Micah, 17, and Jacob, 13—could
study with the Jewish students in Postville, but lacking
a yeshiva background they had difficulty following the classes.
“When our sons came to us with their homework,” Bluma
explained, “they had no idea what the teacher had been
saying in class. I told them, ‘I can’t help you—I
don’t know Yiddish!’” The Abramses now
send their children to Waukon public school and arrange for
Jewish tutoring in the afternoons.
Two other Jewish families have enrolled their children in
the local public school system. Brothers-in-law Mitchel Meltzer
and Toby Bensasson moved to Postville from Florida when the
Rubashkins hired them as full-time accountants. The two families
are active in the local community and are appreciated for
their strong support of sports programs and theatrical productions.
Although they drive 90 minutes to attend a Conservative congregation
in La Crosse, Wisconsin, they are well liked by the Lubavitchers.
Meltzer’s wife, Elaine, teaches a course about Judaism
at a nearby community college, and children from both families
have Hasidic as well as Christian friends.
“I play basketball with Sholom Rubashkin’s sons
whenever I can,” said Jordan Meltzer, a 15-year-old
with a wild mop of dark curls. “And once in a while
I’ll bind tefilin. It doesn’t make me feel anything
special. But my Hasidic friends consider it a mitzva to get
people like me to do it. So, whatever,” he said, shrugging. “If
it weren’t for them, I don’t think the religion
would continue. Like my dad says...they’re an anchor
for it. I respect them for that.”
While the majority of the Hasidim have succeeded in raising
observant children, few expect their sons and daughters to
remain in town beyond the age of 16. Even with the growing
number of Postville-born Jewish children, most families maintain
a strong urban identity through frequent visits back home,
and their sons and daughters feel at home in metropolitan
areas. “I’m definitely a city girl,” said
10-year-old Rochel Goldsmith. She is already dreaming about
moving to New York or Los Angeles as her two older brothers
did before her.
Nobody at the kosher plant seems overly concerned by this
trend. Some point out that the company’s widespread
reputation continues to draw a constant stream of able-bodied
Jewish men with small children. Others offer a more esoteric
answer. “Do we have a plan?” asked Rabbi Aron
Schimmel, an Agriprocessors employee from New York. “Yes,
a big plan. Moshiah is going to come and then we won’t
have to worry about anything.”
Whatever the next decades may bring, Postville continues
to fascinate and lure young Jews. On one chilly day between
seasons, several boarding students stood behind the yeshiva.
The brown land was frozen, and flattened cornfields stretched
toward a cloudy sky. “It’s so quiet here,” reflected
Choli Mishulovin, a bespectacled 16-year-old with wispy forelocks.
He left a religious Brooklyn neighborhood last August to
spend a year in Postville. “In New York, there’s
so much action in my head. When I’m here, I can focus
on learning. There’s nothing to distract me.” He
gazed across the vacant field into an expanse of white space.
Then he opened the door, turning his thoughts back toward
the world inside.
Jennie Rothenberg is a regular contributor to The
Atlantic Monthly.
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